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Updated: May 28, 2025
The charred ruins of Thizzi-Ouzzou in its valley-bed are being replaced by new buildings. All wears a look of every-day thrift. The Arab, moving his household goods, drives before him his poor dingy wife, loaded down with worthless valuables and also with copper jewels, in which she clanks like a fettered slave.
I hated the feeling of these villages, comfortable, well-to-do, clean, and proper. And my boot was chafing two of my toes. That always happens. I had come down to a wide, shallow valley-bed, marshy. So about a mile out of the village I sat down by a stone bridge, by a stream, and tore up my handkerchief, and bound up the toes.
Lastly, a regular ascent, the Majra el-Waghir, fronts the city, sloping up to the west-north-west, and discloses a view of the Jibal el-Tihamah: this broad incline was, some three centuries ago, the route of the Hajj-caravan. We walked down the Shaghab valley-bed, whose sides, like those of the Damah, are chevaux de frise of dead wood.
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