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Between Galatz and the junction with the Main, over nine thousand horses were employed in towing ships up-stream; on the Turkish Danube sails were also used, but not on the Hungarian branch. Besides these a whole fleet of smugglers' boats traded between the two countries, propelled only by strong arms. Salt-smuggling was in full swing.

A police-post in the top right-hand corner and a tiny mud fort in the top left-hand corner prevented as much salt-smuggling and cattle-lifting as the influence of the civilians could not put down; and in the bottom right-hand corner lay Jumala, the district headquarters a pitiful knot of lime-washed barns facetiously rented as houses, reeking with frontier fever, leaking in the rain, and ovens in the summer.

When I was in Shanghai a friend of mine told me of having been to a little town where two men had just been executed for salt-smuggling. Salt is a government monopoly in China, or at least is subject to a special revenue duty, so that salt smuggling is about equivalent to blockading whiskey in America.

Leave Yoksun for Kinchinjunga Ascend Ratong valley Salt-smuggling over Ratong Landslips Plants Buckeem Blocks of gneiss Mon Lepcha View Weather View from Gubroo Kinchinjunga, tops of Pundim cliff Nursing Vegetation of Himalaya Coup d'oeil of Jongri Route to Yalloong Arduous route of salt-traders from Tibet Kinchin, ascent of Lichens Surfaces sculptured by snow and ice Weather at Jongri Snow Shades for eyes.