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Updated: May 4, 2025


So we entered Karyatayn, went to the house of the Shaykh, and dispatched a note to him. His dwelling was a big mud house, with a large reception-room, where we found a big fire. There was a separate house for the harim, which appeared numerous, and I was to sleep there in a room to myself.

We breakfasted at a ruined khan, and changed our horses. Then we rode on and on, seemingly for an age, with no change; not a bird nor a tree nor a sound save the clattering of our horses' hoofs. At length, when within an hour of Karyatayn, we got a little excitement.

They replied that they were the representatives of the Shaykh of Karyatayn, and his fighting men, and that they bore invitations to us. They then jumped down from their horses and kissed my hand.

He had committed a gross insult against us, and it is always best in the East to resent an insult at once. Our next day was a pleasant, lazy day, during which we inspected Karyatayn at our leisure. We rested, read, and wrote, and made a few extra preparations for the march. I went to call on the wife of Omar Beg, who was the daughter of the well-known German savant Herr Mordtmann.

Whilst I was crying we saw a body of mounted Bedawin dodging about in the mountains. So I dried my eyes, and rode on as hard as I could pelt until we reached Karyatayn at sunset; but I had to be lifted off my horse, and could not stand for minutes. All clamoured to rest one day at Karyatayn. We had already been riding for two days hard, and were simply done up.

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