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Updated: May 13, 2025
"I have discovered," I said to Bhima Gandharva after a short experience of the dak-gharri and the dak-bungalows "I have discovered a general remark about India which is not absurd: all the horses are devils and all the dak-bungalow servants are patriarchs." "If you judge by the heels of the former and the beards of the latter, it is true," he said.
This little passage was based on the experience of the last relay, which was, however, little more than a repetition of many previous ones. My friend and I having arranged ourselves comfortably in the dak-gharri as soon as it was announced ready to start, the long and marvelously lean Indian who was our driver signified to his team by the usual horse-language that we should be glad to go.
The dak-gharri is a comfortable-enough long carriage on four wheels, and constitutes the principal mode of conveyance for travelers in India besides the railway. It contains a mattress inside, for it goes night and day, and one's baggage is strapped on top, much as in an American stage-coach after the "boot" is full.
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