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Updated: July 25, 2025
In the centre of the table, its browned crust slashed with a cross, was the great loaf of Christmas bread, pan Calendau; on which was a bunch of holly tied with the white pith of rushes the "marrow" of the rush, that is held to be an emblem of strength.
A reminiscence of this general charity still survives in the little town of Solliès, tucked away in the mountains not far from Toulon. And throughout Provence the custom still is general that each well-to-do family shall send a portion of its Christmas loaf the pan calendau to some friend or neighbour to whom Fortune has been less kind.
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