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Updated: May 8, 2025
After a delightful morning to all parties concerned for we were much amused, the coolies were adequately paid, and the bear wasn't worried we returned to breakfast, and then marched fifteen hot miles into Gunderbal, where we found the Smithsons, with whom we dined.
As Jane and I returned from a visit to the post-office along a sweltering path among the rice-fields, from which warm waves of air rose steaming into the sunset, we failed to observe the celebrated and superior coolness of Gunderbal' Thursday, July 6. The lumbadhar of Gunderbal, in spite of his magnificent name, is a rascal of the deepest dye.
The usual struggle with the crew resulted, also as usual, in our favour, and we got right through to Gunderbal at the mouth of the Sind River, where we now lie amid a flotilla of boats whose occupiers have fled away from the sultriness and smelliness of Srinagar in search of the cool currents, both of air and water, which are popularly supposed to flow down the Sind.
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