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To remain in these mountains without a supply was impossible, and the delay, of sending to Mywa Guola would not have answered; so I long lay awake, occupied in arranging measures. The night was clear and very cold; the thermometer falling to 19 degrees at 9 p.m., and to 12 degrees in the night, and that by my bedside to 20 degrees.
From the junction of the rivers the road led up the Tambur to Mywa Guola; about sixteen miles by the river, but fully thirty-five, as we wound, ascended, and descended, during three days' marches. We were ferried across the stream in a canoe much ruder than that of the New Zealander.
Chingtam village, view from Mywa river and Guola House Boulders Chain-bridge Meepo, arrival of Fevers. Owing to the unsatisfactory nature of our relations with the Sikkim authorities, to which I have elsewhere alluded, my endeavours to procure leave to penetrate further beyond the Dorjiling territory than Tonglo, were attended with some trouble and delay.
A change in the population accompanies that in the natural features of the country, Tibetans replacing the Limboos and Khass-tribes of Nepal, who inhabit the lower region. We daily passed parties of ten or a dozen Tibetans, on their way to Mywa Guola, laden with salt; several families of these wild, black, and uncouth-looking people generally travelling together.
Immediately above Chingtam, the Tambur is joined by a large affluent from the west, the Mywa, which is crossed by an excellent iron bridge, formed of loops hanging from two parallel chains, along which is laid a plank of sal timber. Passing through the village, we camped on a broad terrace, from sixty to seventy feet above the junction of the rivers, whose beds are 2100 feet above the sea.
My passport said nothing about the passes; my people, and especially the Ghorkas, detested the keen, cold, and cutting wind; at Mywa Guola, I had been persuaded by the Havildar to put off providing snow-boots and blankets, on the assurance that I should easily get them at Walloong, which I now found all but impossible, owing to there being no bazaar.
Leave Mywa Suspension bridge Landslips Vegetation Slope of riverbed Bees' nests Glacial phenomena Tibetans, clothing, ornaments, amulets, salutation, children, dogs Last Limboo village, Taptiatok Beautiful scenery Tibet village of Lelyp Opuntia Edgeworthia Crab-apple Chameleon and porcupine Praying machine Abies Brunoniana European plants Grand scenery Arrive at Wallanchoon Scenery around Trees Tibet houses Manis and Mendongs Tibet household Food Tea-soup Hospitality Yaks and Zobo, uses and habits of Bhoteeas Yak-hair tents Guobah of Walloong Jhatamansi Obstacles to proceeding Climate and weather Proceed Rhododendrons, etc.
The vegetation round Mywa Guola is still thoroughly tropical: the banyan is planted, and thrives tolerably, the heat being great during the day. Like the whole of the Tambur valley below 4000 feet, and especially on these flats, the climate is very malarious before and after the rains; and I was repeatedly applied to by natives suffering under attacks of fever.
The mountains around Taptiatok, Mywa Guola, and Chingtam, were pointed out to me, but they presented no recognizable feature. I often looked for some slope, or strike of the slopes of the spurs, in any one valley, or that should prevail through several, but could seldom trace any, except on one or two occasions, at low elevations.
Lichens Poa annua and Shepherd's purse Tibet camp Tuquoroma Scenery of pass Glaciers and snow Summit Plants, woolly, etc. On the 18th November, we left Mywa Guola, and continued up the river to the village of Wallanchoon or Walloong, which was reached in six marches. I crossed the Mewa, an affluent from the north, by another excellent suspension bridge.
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