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The road was very bad, often up ladders, and along planks lashed to the faces of precipices, and over-hanging the torrent, which it crossed several times by plank bridges. By dark we arrived at Yangma Guola, a collection of empty wood huts buried in the rocky forest-clad valley, and took possession of a couple.
To remain in these mountains without a supply was impossible, and the delay, of sending to Mywa Guola would not have answered; so I long lay awake, occupied in arranging measures. The night was clear and very cold; the thermometer falling to 19 degrees at 9 p.m., and to 12 degrees in the night, and that by my bedside to 20 degrees.
From the junction of the rivers the road led up the Tambur to Mywa Guola; about sixteen miles by the river, but fully thirty-five, as we wound, ascended, and descended, during three days' marches. We were ferried across the stream in a canoe much ruder than that of the New Zealander.
Chingtam village, view from Mywa river and Guola House Boulders Chain-bridge Meepo, arrival of Fevers. Owing to the unsatisfactory nature of our relations with the Sikkim authorities, to which I have elsewhere alluded, my endeavours to procure leave to penetrate further beyond the Dorjiling territory than Tonglo, were attended with some trouble and delay.
Lichens Poa annua and Shepherd's purse Tibet camp Tuquoroma Scenery of pass Glaciers and snow Summit Plants, woolly, etc. On the 18th November, we left Mywa Guola, and continued up the river to the village of Wallanchoon or Walloong, which was reached in six marches. I crossed the Mewa, an affluent from the north, by another excellent suspension bridge.
Return from Wallanchoon pass Procure a bazaar at village Dance of Lamas Blacking face, Tibetan custom of Temple and convent Leave for Kanglachem pass Send part of party back to Dorjiling Yangma Guola Drunken Tibetans Guobah of Wallanchoon Camp at foot of Great Moraine View from top Geological speculations Height of moraines Cross dry lake-bed Glaciers More moraines Terraces Yangma temples Jos, books and furniture Peak of Nango Lake Arrive at village Cultivation Scenery Potatos State of my provisions Pass through village Gigantic boulders Terraces Wild sheep Lake-beds Sun's power Piles of gravel and detritus Glaciers and moraines Pabuk, elevation of Moonlight scene Return to Yangma Temperature, etc.
My passport said nothing about the passes; my people, and especially the Ghorkas, detested the keen, cold, and cutting wind; at Mywa Guola, I had been persuaded by the Havildar to put off providing snow-boots and blankets, on the assurance that I should easily get them at Walloong, which I now found all but impossible, owing to there being no bazaar.
A change in the population accompanies that in the natural features of the country, Tibetans replacing the Limboos and Khass-tribes of Nepal, who inhabit the lower region. We daily passed parties of ten or a dozen Tibetans, on their way to Mywa Guola, laden with salt; several families of these wild, black, and uncouth-looking people generally travelling together.
The mountains around Taptiatok, Mywa Guola, and Chingtam, were pointed out to me, but they presented no recognizable feature. I often looked for some slope, or strike of the slopes of the spurs, in any one valley, or that should prevail through several, but could seldom trace any, except on one or two occasions, at low elevations.
The vegetation round Mywa Guola is still thoroughly tropical: the banyan is planted, and thrives tolerably, the heat being great during the day. Like the whole of the Tambur valley below 4000 feet, and especially on these flats, the climate is very malarious before and after the rains; and I was repeatedly applied to by natives suffering under attacks of fever.
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