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While I was still at white-heat up came the head official; removing the cigar from his lips with Oriental dignity and deliberation, he calmly answered my question, and having paid the money we went our way. Our design was now to get to Weisskirchen, and sleep there, that place being the only decent quarters within reach. Our road was over the mountains a lonely pass of ill repute.

As time wore on the heat became almost tropical; as for the dust, I felt as if I had swallowed a sandbank, and was joyful at the near prospect of quenching my thirst at Weisskirchen, now visible in the distance. Hungarian towns look like overgrown villages that have never made up their minds seriously to become towns.

We took the road to Weisskirchen, leaving the Danube in the rear. The country was fairly pretty, but nothing remarkable; fine scenery under the circumstances would have been quite superfluous, for the dust was two feet deep in the road, and the heels of four horses scampering along raised such a cloud of it that we could see next to nothing.

We arrived all right at Weisskirchen, which was good-luck considering the chances of an upset in the darkness, for night had overtaken us long before our drive was half over. Thoroughly tired, we were glad enough to draw up in the innyard, the same I had visited some weeks before; but great was our disgust at being told that there was not a bed to be had every room was taken.

Maidenpek Well-to-do condition of Servians Lady Mary Wortley Montague's journey through Servia Troubles in Bulgaria Communists at Negotin Copper mines Forest ride Robbers on the road Kucainia Belo-breska Across the Danube Detention at customhouse Weisskirchen Sleeping Wallacks. We reached Maidenpek without further mishap, and here I began to make inquiries again about a horse.