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Difficulty in procuring leave to enter Sikkim Obtain permission to travel in East Nepal Arrangements Coolies Stores Servants Personal equipment Mode of travelling Leave Dorjiling Goong ridge Behaviour of Bhotan coolies Nepal frontier Myong valley Ilam Sikkim massacre Cultivation Nettles Camp at Nanki on Tonglo Bhotan coolies run away View of Chumulari Nepal peaks to west Sakkiazung Buceros Road to Wallanchoon Oaks Scarcity of water Singular view of mountain-valleys Encampment My tent and its furniture Evening occupations Dunkotah Crossridge of Sakkiazung Yews Silver-firs View of Tambur valley Pemmi river Pebbly terraces Geology Holy springs Enormous trees Luculia gratissima Khawa river, rocks of Arrive at Tambur Shingle and gravel terraces Natives, indolence of Canoe ferry Votive offerings Bad road Temperature, etc.

Here and there smooth pastures climbed the slopes that shut it in, but over part of them ranged mighty oaks, still almost green. Beyond these, beeches tinted with brown and crimson glowed against the dusky foliage of spruces and silver-firs. "One needs wisdom, love of the soil and all that lives on it, and perhaps patience most of all," she resumed. "These woods are an example.

She kept on the belt of grass, which got narrower, so that the path ran close to the hedge. On the opposite side, a clump of silver-firs threw a shadow across the road, and a patch of pale-yellow sky shone behind an opening in the trees. The stiff fir-branches cut sharply against the glow, but where she and Kit were the light was dim.

Silver-firs ascend nearly to 13,000 feet, where they are replaced by large junipers, sixty feet high: up the valley Chango Khang is seen, with a superb glacier descending to about 14,000 feet on its south flank.