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All the baggage animals were brought over in the same way, and the Lahulis praised their gods. At Gya, a wild hamlet, the last in Ladak proper, I met a working naturalist whom I had seen twice before, and 'forgathered' with him much of the way. Eleven days of solitary desert succeeded.

Stretching from the Nepaul hills to the far distant plains of Gya, with the Gunduch, Bogmuttee and other noble streams watering its rich bosom, and swelling with their tribute the stately Ganges, it includes every variety of soil and climate; and its various races, with their strange costumes, creeds, and customs, might afford material to fill volumes.

After a cold night, during which I dreamt of our lost cook, we were awoke by a shout of "Jeeta hy!" "He is living!" then, "Rusta bhool gya!" "He lost his way!" and gradually it dawned upon us that the man we had fancied floating down the torrent a mangled corpse was still actually in the land of the living.

But Rupchu has peculiarities of its own. Between Gya and Darcha, the first hamlet in Lahul, are three huge passes, the Toglang, 18,150 feet in altitude, the Lachalang, 17,500, and the Baralacha, 16,000, all easy, except for the difficulties arising from the highly rarefied air.