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We have them here in England in great quantity; we call them the "Norman" architecture. A peculiarly vivid relic of that springtime remains at Arles. It is the door of what was then the cathedral the door of St. Trophimus. It perpetuates the beginning of the civilisation of the Middle Ages.
Then it was that I discovered that Arles has no general physiognomy and, except the delightful little church of Saint Trophimus, no architecture, and that the rugosities of its dirty lanes affect the feet like knife-blades. It was not then, on the other hand, that I saw the arena best.
And of that civilisation an accident which has all the force of a particular design has preserved here, attached to this same church, another complete type. The cloisters of this same Church of St. Trophimus are not only the Middle Ages caught and made eternal, they are also a progression of that great experiment from its youth to its sharp close.
Irenaeus; others from Rome, especially under the pontificate of Pope St. Fabian, himself martyred in 219; St. Felix and St. Fortunatus to Valence, St. Ferreol to Besancon, St. Marcellus to Chalons-sur-Saone, St. Benignus to Dijon, St. Trophimus to Arles, St. Paul to Narbonne, St. Saturninus to Toulouse, St. Martial to Limoges, St. Andeol and St. Privatus to the Cevennes, St.
"Then cried Torfrid, my forefather, 'What use in crying to St. Trophimus? He could not help himself, when the Paynim burnt him: and how can he help us? A tough arm is worth a score of martyrs here. "And he rode at that Emir, and gript him in his arms.
There are other things, of which I have but a confused memory: a great fortified keep; a queer little primitive chapel hollowed out of the rock beneath these later structures and recommended to the visitor's attention as the confessional of Saint Trophimus, who shares with so many worthies the glory of being the first apostle of the Gauls.
It is very remarkable, but I would rather it were in another place. Arles is delightfully pagan, and Saint Trophimus, with its apostolic sculptures, is rather a false note. These sculptures are equally remarkable for their primitive vigour and for the perfect preservation in which they have come down to us.
Difficulty of finding one's way about in Arles The two inns The mistral The charm of Arles is in the past A dead city Situation of Arles on a nodule of limestone The Elysian Fields A burial-place for the submerged neighbourhood The Alyscamp now in process of destruction Expropriation of ancient tombs Avenue of tombs Old church of S. Honore S. Trophimus S. Virgilius Augustine, apostle of the English, consecrated by him The Flying Dutchman Tomb of AElia Of Julia Tyranna Her musical instruments Monument of Calpurnia Her probable story Mathematical versus classic studies Tombs of utriculares Christian sarcophagi Probably older than the date usually attributed to them A French author on the wreckage of the Elysian Fields.
The church of Saint Trophimus, whose wonderful romanesque porch is the principal ornament of the principal place a place otherwise distinguished by the presence of a slim and tapering obelisk in the middle, as well as by that of the hôtel de ville and the museum the interesting church of Saint Trophimus swears a little, as the French say, with the peculiar character of Arles.
Then it was that I discovered that Arles has no general physiognomy, and, except the delightful little church of Saint Trophimus, no architecture, and that the rugosities of its dirty lanes affect the feet like knife-blades. It was not then, on the other hand, that I saw the arena best.
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