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Updated: May 15, 2025
We left the fried-fish shops and fried spitted-meat shops behind, whence emerge kabobs second only to coos-coosoo and a smell indescribable; and we wound down tortuous alleys, past quiet windowless houses, whose great painted doors, yellow and brown, studded with enormous nails and knockers, spoke respectability. Never a straight street for six yards.
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