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Presently I crossed a little bridge over a rivulet, and seeing a small house on the shutter of which was painted "cwrw," I went in, sat down on an old chair, which I found vacant, and said in English to an old woman who sat knitting by the window: "Bring me a pint of ale!" "Dim Saesneg!" said the old woman. "I told you to bring me a pint of ale," said I to her in her own language.
The ancient litter-ature, I am sorry to confess, I sold as waste paper, at so much per pound; but to show that some lingering regard for at least two of Cambria's institutions yet reigns in this bosom, I am just about to begin upon a Welsh rabbit, and wash it down with a pitcher of cwrw dach. Of all the letters of condolence I have received since my misfortune, yours has consoled me most.
He of the settle no sooner beheld me than he sprang up, and placing a chair for me by the fire bade me in English be seated, and then resumed his own seat. John Jones soon finding a chair came and sat down by me, when I forthwith called for a quart of cwrw da.
Piloted by our dusky guide, not exactly, though, like Campbell's "Morning brought by Night," we soon reached the town, which is named after a young lady of legendary times named Tydfil, a Christian martyr, of which Merthyr-Tydvil is a corruption, and made the best of our way to the Bush Inn, where we treated our sable friend to some cwrw dach, Anglicé, strong ale; and after a hearty supper of Welsh rabbit, which Tom Ingoldsby calls a "bunny without any bones," and "custard with mustard," which, as made in the Principality, it much resembles, I took a stroll through the town.
"How came you on the colt's back, Jenkins?" said Mr Pritchard, after we had all sat down and Jenkins had called for some cwrw. "I did not know that he was broke in." "I am breaking him in myself," said Jenkins speaking Welsh. "I began with him to-night." "Do you mean to say," said I, "that you have begun breaking him in by mounting his back?" "I do," said the other.
"It is singular enough," said I, "that the only two Welsh poets I have seen have been innkeepers one is yourself, the other a person I met in Anglesey. I suppose the Muse is fond of cwrw da."
He was a large bulky man of about the middle age, and his companions were about the same age and size as himself. I asked them if they were Welsh. "Yes, sir," said one, "I suppose we are, for they call us Welsh." I asked if any of them could speak Welsh. "No, sir," said the man, "all the Welsh that any of us know, or indeed wish to know, is 'Cwrw da." Here there was a general laugh.
The cwrw da passed quickly about among the builders, I assure you." We returned to the road, and when we had ascended a hill, my companion told me that if I looked to the left I should see the Vale of Clwyd. I looked and perceived an extensive valley pleasantly dotted with trees and farm-houses, and bounded on the west by a range of hills.
"It was called so, sir," said John, "because it was originally merely a turf hovel, though at present it consists of good brick and mortar." "Can we breakfast there," said I, "for I feel both hungry and thirsty?" "Oh yes, sir," said John, "I have heard there is good cheese and cwrw there." We turned off to the "tafarn," which was a decent public-house of rather an antiquated appearance.
Mr Jones asked for tea in preference to cwrw da, and he and Gladys were enjoying it, whilst Mr Prothero chose the good home-brewed. Eggs and bacon, cold meat, and most tempting butter were upon the table, and Mrs Prothero was acting waitress and hostess at the same time. Shanno appeared with the note, delicately held by the corner between her finger and thumb.
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