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From the southern side of the citadel, we looked down into the gorge which supplies Kiutahya with water a wild, desert landscape of white crags and shattered peaks of gray rock, hanging over a narrow winding bed of the greenest foliage.

"And round us all the thicket rang To many a flute of Arcady." Tennyson. Kiutahya, July 5, 1852. We had now passed through the ancient provinces of Cilicia, Cappadocia, and Lycaonia, and reached the confines of Phrygia a rude mountain region, which was never wholly penetrated by the light of Grecian civilization.

The old man now came up, mounted on a dun mare, stating that he was bound for Kiutahya, and was delighted with the prospect of travelling in such good company, I gave one of his young children some money, as the kaimak was tendered out of pure hospitality, and so we rode off.

They have not the hanging balconies which I have found so quaint and pleasing in Kiutahya. But, especially in the Greek quarter, many of them are plastered and painted of some bright color, which gives a gay, cheerful appearance to the streets. Besides, Brousa is the cleanest Turkish town I have seen.

But the horses are saddled, and Francois tells me it is time to put up my pen. We are off, over the mountains, to the Greek city of OEzani, in the valley of the Rhyndacus. Kiutahya and the Ruins of OEzani.

"There is a temple in ruin stands, Fashioned by long-forgotten hands; Two or three columns and many a stone, Marble and granite, with grass o'ergrown! Out upon Time! it will leave no more Of the things to come than the things before!" Daghje Koei, on the Rhyndacus, July 6, 1852. On entering Kiutahya, we passed the barracks, which were the residence of Kossuth and his companions in exile.

I spent two or three hours next morning in taking a survey of Kiutahya. The town is much larger than I had supposed: I should judge it to contain from fifty to sixty thousand inhabitants. The situation is remarkable, and gives a picturesque effect to the place when seen from above, which makes one forget its internal filth.

The Frontier of Phrygia Ancient Quarries and Tombs We Enter the Pine Forests A Guard-House Encampments of the Turcomans Pastoral Scenery A Summer Village The Valley of the Tombs Rock Sepulchres of the Phrygian Kings The Titan's Camp The Valley of Kuembeh A Land of Flowers Turcoman Hospitality The Exiled Effendis The Old Turcoman A Glimpse of Arcadia A Landscape Interested Friendship The Valley of the Pursek Arrival at Kiutahya.

Defeated on these tacks, he boldly affirmed that his services were worthy of payment. "But," said Francois "you told us at the village that you had business in Kiutahya, and would be glad to join us for the sake of having company on the road." "Well, then," rejoined the old fellow, making a last effort, "I leave the matter to your politeness."

Instead of taking the direct road to Brousa, we decided to make a detour of two days, in order to visit the ruins of the old Greek city of OEzani, which are thirty-six miles south of Kiutahya.