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"A fresh fish," she wrote, "does not smell fishy and its eyes are bright and its gills red. A tender chicken or turkey has a springy breast bone. If you push it down with your finger, it springs back. A leg of lamb has to have the tough, outer parchment-like skin taken off with a sharp knife. Some of the oil of the wool is in it and makes it taste muttony and bad.
He was out of sight, but presently I met Joe Shanks, the butcher's son, who brought us our chops. Joe was a stout young man, about twenty-one, red-faced, burly, and greasy. We used to have many jokes with Joe; even Smugg had before now broken a mild shaft of classical wit on him; in fact, we made a butt of Joe, and his good-humored, muttony smile told us that he thought it a compliment. "Seen Mr.
'Oh, it's a wicked world, bleated Spilsby, in a soft voice, looking after the retreating figure. 'I'm sorry for that poor gal I am indeed but this ain't business, and once more raising his voice he cried up his wares, 'Oh, lovely; ain't they muttony? Spilsby's specials, all 'ot; one penny.
"Beef!" said his companion, screwing a pinchbeck glass into his right eye. "Beef, mottled, covey; humph! Lamb, oldish, ravish, muttony; humph! Pie, stalish. Veal? no, pork. Ah! what will you have?"
Hurlingham in the merry month of June, just when the east winds have ceased to trouble; when the roses and strawberries are at their best; when the lamb is verging towards muttony, and the whitebait are growing up; when the leaves are yet young, and Epsom and Ascot either pleasant or grim memories of the past.
'Look 'ere, retorted Grattles, standing on the tips of his large boots to look more imposing, 'my stumick's a bit orf when it comes to fat, and I wants the vally of my penny; give us a muttony one, with lots of gravy. ''Ere y'are, then, said Spilsby, quite out of temper with his fastidious customer; ''ere's a pie as is all made of ram as 'adn't got more fat on it than you 'ave.
I believe it is Huxley who applies to them the epithet of muttony, which they certainly deserve, for they are like the backs of immense sheep, smooth, and round, and fat, so smooth, indeed, that the eye can hardly find a place to take hold of, not a tree, or bush, or fence, or house, or rock, or stone, or other object, for miles and miles, save here and there a group of strawcapped stacks, or a flock of sheep crawling slowly over them, attended by a shepherd and dog, and the only lines visible those which bound the squares where different crops had been gathered.
'Oh, my eye! shrieked Grattles, executing a grimace after the fashion of a favourite comedian; 'he ain't a tart, oh, no 'es a pie, 'e are, a special, a muttony special; 'e don't kill no kittings and call 'em sheep, oh, no; 'e don't buy chicory and calls it coffee, blest if 'e does; 'e's a corker, 'e are, and 'is name ain't the same as 'is father's.
"Beef!" said his companion, screwing a pinchbeck glass into his right eye. "Beef, mottled, covey; humph! Lamb, oldish, ravish, muttony; humph! Pie, stalish. Veal? no, pork. Ah! what will you have?"
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