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It must be borne in mind that the return journey occupies the punters three or four times the duration of the journey downstream. Each stage is an entire day's work, therefore, for which the tariff alone is insufficient remuneration. Our new boatmen are the brothers Montginoux young men, very pleasant, very intelligent, and exceedingly skilful in their business.

'At La Malene, Casimir Montginoux, hotel proprietor. 'At St. Prejet, Alphonse Solanet, mayor. 'The charge for the complete transit, whether the boat numbers one passenger or several, is forty-two francs, which may be paid to any of the boatmen or at any stage of the journey. St. Enimie is what Gibbon calls 'an aged town, its sponsor and foundress being a Merovingian princess.

Very fair accommodation, however, is to be had at the house of the brothers Montginoux, our boatmen for the next stage, and all travellers, especially good walkers, should make a halt here if they can. For ourselves, two motives hastened departure.

Half-way we meet the rural postman, whose presence reminds us that we are still on the verge of civilization, eerie as is all the solitude and desolation around. At Les Vignes we lose our pleasant, chatty, well-informed young boatmen, the brothers Montginoux, and embark for the fourth and last time. We have now to shoot the rapids.