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The cut of their women's dress resembles the reindeer skin dress of the Laps in north of Norway, and the geometric ornaments are similar, and the torque or heavy penanular necklet of silver has ends like the druidical serpents head. 12th February. Down at Kulong Cha the night was warm and stuffy! last night up here at Nampoung it was precious cold.

So we got back to our ponies again, and followed our baggage jogging back down from China, in and out, and up and down the valleys; and it was just as nice as jogging up: we were glad to see the scenes of wood and valley and foaming rivers over again from new points of view. At Kulong Cha, we stopped the night in the Glen of the Sound of Many Waters.

So we get on to our rather big polo ponies, one black, the other white, and go down the valley on the path to China said bridle path quite dry now excepting under bamboo clumps, though it rained hard in the night. 7 P.M. Kulong Cha "There's no place like home" they say, and I thought so; now I think there is, perhaps even better.

Terriers' lives here are short and full of sport, and leopards love them. What an adventuresome day Bag one crow one Mahseer. The desperate play of the Mahseer and our adventure into China had tired us, so that we left Kulong Cha late, after a "European breakfast"; which is to say, a breakfast at or about nine, and rode with much pleasure till lunch time.