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Strange trophies those Turkish heads were for the residence of a Christian bishop! Spira's entrance diverted my eyes and thoughts from these horrible proofs of Montenegrin ferocity; and after partaking of an inviting little breakfast of Mr Popham'a arranging I mounted my mule, and we set out. He rode also, and Spira and Giuro trudged alongside.
My guide Giuro was full of apologies for the roughness of the track we rode upon, telling me the old Montenegrin legend "that at the Creation, the bag which held the stones to be distributed over the earth, burst, and let them all fall on the Black Mountain." The road certainly was as bad as possible; but my mule advanced sturdily, by jumps and jerks, till we reached the top of the pass.
Spira and he followed with my light baggage, and Giuro remained behind in charge of the animals. Softly and swiftly we glided along, the green waters rippling and gurgling round our boat. The river gradually widened till it grew into a lake, the lovely Lake of Scutari.
Old Giuro now raised his voice to the shrillest key imaginable, and, in a way peculiar to these mountaineers, who talk to each other from hill tops half a mile asunder, announced that "our lady" was approaching. Whereupon a great hubbub arose; dogs barked, and feminine voices responded eagerly.
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