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The thermometer fell to 28 degrees during the night, and in the morning the ground was thickly covered with hoar-frost. December 7. We ascended the Yalloong ridge to a saddle 11,000 feet elevation, whence the road dips south to the gloomy gorges of the eastern feeders of the Tambur.
Dissolving views give some idea of the magic creation and dispersion of the effects, but any combination of science and art can no more recall the scene, than it can the feelings of awe that crept over me, during the hour I spent in solitude amongst these stupendous mountains. The moon guided us on our descent, which was to the south, obliquely into the Yalloong valley.
The descent from the Yalloong ridge to the Khabili feeders of the Tambur was very steep, and in some places almost precipitous, first through dense woods of silver fir, with Rhod. One bush of the former was in flower, making a gorgeous show.
My route hence was to be along the south flank of Kinchinjunga, north to Jongri, which lay about four or five marches off, on the road to the long deserted pass of Kanglanamo, by which I had intended entering Sikkim from Nepal, when I found the route up the Yalloong valley impracticable.
I wondered what could have induced the frequenting of such a route to Nepal, when there were so many better ones over Singalelah, till I found from my guide that he had habitually smuggled salt over this pass to avoid the oppressive duty levelled by the Dewan on all imports from Tibet by the eastern passes: he further told me that it took five days to reach Yalloong in Nepal front Yoksun, on the third of which the Kanglanamo pass is crossed, which is open from April to November, but is always heavily snowed.
Hence to Yalloong in Nepal, by the Kanglanamo pass, is two days' march: the route crosses the Singalelah range at an elevation of about 15,000 feet, south of Kubra, and north of a mountain that forms a conspicuous feature south-west from Jongri, as a crest of black fingered peaks, tipped with snow.
A large flock of sheep and goats, laden with salt, overtook us here on their route from Wallanchoon to Yalloong. The sheep I observed to feed on the Rhododendron Thomsoni and campylocarpum. December 5. The morning was bright and clear, and we left early for the Choonjerma pass.
Crossing the river, we first made a considerable descent, and then ascended a ridge to 5,750 feet, through a thick jungle of Camellia, Eurya, and small oak: from the top I obtained bearings of Yalloong and Choonjerma pass, and had also glimpses of the Kinchin range through a tantalizing jungle; after which a very winding and fatiguing up-and-down march southwards brought us to the village of Khabang, in the magnificent valley of the Tawa, about 800 feet above the river, and 5,500 feet above the sea.
Ascend to Nango mountain Moraines Glaciers Vegetation Rhododendron Hodgsoni Rocks Honey-combed surface of snow Perpetual snow Top of pass View Elevation Geology Distance of sound Plants Temperature Scenery Cliffs of granite and hurled boulders Camp Descent Pheasants Larch Himalayan pines Distribution of Deodar, note on Tassichooding temples Kambachen village Cultivation Moraines in valley, distribution of Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation Tibetan sheep and goats Cryptogramma crispa Ascent to Choonjerma pass View of Junnoo Rocks of its summit Misty ocean Nepal peaks Top of pass Temperature, and observations Gorgeous sunset Descent to Yalloong valley Loose path Night scenes Musk deer.
The marches between them are as follows: 1. To Yalloong two days; crossing Kanglanamo pass, 15,000 feet high. 3. To foot of Choonjerma pass, descending to 10,000 feet. 4. Cross Choonjerma pass, 15,260 feet, and proceed to Kambachen, 11,400 feet. 5. Cross Nango pass, 15,770, and camp on Yangma river, 11,000 feet. 6. Ascend to foot of Kanglachem pass, and camp at 15,000 feet. 7.
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