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The new foundation, although laughed at at first by the imperialists and called Alessandria della Paglia, from its hastily constructed straw huts, soon held a population of fifteen thousand. It continues to-day to reflect credit on its sponsor. Contrary to all expectations it was six years before Frederick returned to Italy, and the Lombard League was meanwhile left master of the field.
Meanwhile, Manisty was rejoined by Father Benecke who had left him for a few minutes to write his letter beside the Paglia, which was rushing down in a brown flood, after the rain of the day before.
The Ponte di Paglia A gondolier's shrine The modern prison Danieli's A Canaletto S. Zaccaria A good Bellini A funeral service Alessandro Vittorio S. Giovanni in Bragora A good Cima The best little room A seamen's institute Carpaccio at his best The story of the dragon The saint triumphant The story of S. George S. Jerome and the lion S. Jerome and the dog S. Tryphonius and the basilisk S. Francesco della Vigna Brother Antonio's picture The Giustiniani reliefs Cloisters A Veronese Doge Andrea Gritti Doge Niccolò Sagredo.
Selvapendente the Paglia does the Signora see the bridge down there? veda lei, under Selvapendente? Those forests on the mountain there they belong all to the Casa Guerrini tutto, tutto! as far as the Signorina can see! And that little house there, on the hill that casa di caccia that was poor Don Emilio's, that was killed in the war.
In this drawing we have merely to notice that, of the two bridges seen on the right, the uppermost, above the black canal, is the Bridge of Sighs; the lower one is the Ponte della Paglia, the regular thoroughfare from quay to quay, and, I believe, called the Bridge of Straw, because the boats which brought straw from the mainland used to sell it at this place.
Starting anywhere near the Molo, this means that the route will be by the Rio del Palazzo, under the Ponte di Paglia and the Bridge of Sighs, between the Doges' Palace and the prison; up the winding Rio di S. Maria Formosa, and then into the Rio dei Mendicanti with a glimpse of the superb Colleoni statue and SS. Giovanni e Paoli and the lions on the Scuola of S. Mark; under the bridge with a pretty Madonna on it; and so up the Rio dei Mendicanti, passing on the left a wineyard with two graceful round arches in it and then a pleasant garden with a pergola, and then a busy squero with men always at work on gondolas new or old.
It was the deeper channel, just in front of the Ducal Palace, continuing the line of the great water street itself which the Venetians spoke of as "the Grand Canal." The words of Sansovino are: "Fu cominciato dove si vede, vicino al ponte della paglia, et rispondente sul canal grande." Filiasi says simply: "The palace was built where it now is." "Il palazio fu fatto dove ora pure esiste."
Higher still is Narni, looking over her embattled walls. It is one of the most striking positions on the way from Florence to Rome, and the next half hour, through savage gorges and black tunnels, ever beside the tormented waters of the Nar until they meet the Tiber, swollen by the tributes of the Paglia and Chiana, is singularly fine.
Its width was equal to that from the present Noah or Vine Corner by the Ponte di Paglia to the fifth column from that corner. Its wing extended to the Piazzetta. A wall and moat protected it, the extent of its ramparts being practically identical with the extent of the present building.
And this they must have done at the traghetto di San Spirito. Neither the church nor the traghetto are now in existence, and this part of the story is therefore obscure. Having reached San Marco, he took a gondola at the Ponte della Paglia, where tourists are now wont to stand and contemplate the Ducal Palace and the Bridge of Sighs.
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