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A long string of camels kept pace with us for a time on a parallel trail; then a douar came into sight, afterwards two saint-houses and a ruined kasbah. That half of these castles are ruined is not to be wondered at, considering that they are mud-built, and that tribal disputes and invasions are interminable.
The black dot moved round the parapet, and east and west and north and south chanted the great summons to the Faithful to prayer. And then the little white flag was hauled down. On the other side of the river the neutral-coloured villages could be picked out by their white saint-houses. Morocco is stuck as full of saints' tombs fuller than England of dissenting chapels. They stud the land.
There are saint-houses in the city where women are allowed to pray, but only upon one night in the whole year in El-Jama-el-Kebeer a field-day among the wives and concubines, who flit like white moths through the darkness in flocks to worship, carrying red-and-blue lanterns. At last we reached the house of the Moor upon whom Mr. Bewicke intended us to call a specimen of the best Moorish houses.
The place at which we had halted for lunch was El Faidar, within sight of one of Morocco's countless little white saint-houses Sidi Bousuktor. Now, after a long climb over a ridge, we looked down from the top into a valley Ain-el-Hadger; and Omar pointed out in the distance the spot he suggested we should camp at for the night.
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