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The rain had ceased, a holy silence reigned throughout all nature, not a leaf rustled, the red brook only flowed splashingly along, and the glowing waterfall murmured its melody.
Not far away a small waterfall comes tumbling over the crags among the foliage; this miniature Niagara has a fame almost as great as the mighty cataract of the New World, for it is the "Fall of Lodore," about which, in answer to his little boy's question, "How does the water come down at Lodore?"
Once the judge who was generally asleep woke up and began to scratch furiously with his quill; once three of the assessors the men in short wigs began an animated conversation; one man with a thin, dark face laughed noiselessly, showing teeth like a white waterfall.
There was such a mingling of the rich vegetation of the hot country with the rocky ornaments of this pretty waterfall that I could never grow weary of admiring the combined grandeur and beauty of the place, from which Peter Terreros derived his title of Count of Regla.
Tom led now and I followed, leaving the cascade behind us, and thoroughly examining the other side of the amphitheatre, but without avail; when we sat down, worn out, about opposite to the rift where we had entered, too disheartened to speak, till Tom said: "We shall have to try and crawl through that hole, Mas'r Harry there, under the waterfall."
At last I reached the end, with its waterfall fountain. Close within this ceaseless sprinkle, on a narrow ledge that was never dry, was placed I had almost said grew a bird's nest; whose, it were needless to ask. One American bird, and one only, chooses perpetual dampness for his environment, the American dipper, or water ouzel. Here I paused to muse over the spray-soaked cradle on the rock.
Redmond answered blithely: "He is coming, but with me. You are too grave for us, so go your ways, talking wisely of heaven and earth, while we come after, enjoying both as we gather lichens, chase the goats, and meet you at the waterfall. Now senor, put away guitar and book, for I have learned my lesson; so help me with this unruly hair of mine and leave the Spanish for today."
On one of our excursions we saw what in rainy weather is a good waterfall, and I find a reference to this that I quote for the curious bit of Welsh-English that is included in it, "We came to a little village, which has in a wet season a very fine waterfall; the driver said it would not be seen to advantage because there was 'few water. There certainly was 'few water, but the fine high rocks gave a powerful idea of what it would have been had the rushing of waters taken the place of the death-like stillness which then prevailed."
To them how beautiful it must have been, how beautiful the light of the stars, and the lonely gardens stretching along the lake, and the dim paths between the cypresses, and the great silence that floated over the lake to listen to the waterfall. And all these things were terrible to her all. Not one was beautiful.
A little before noon we reached the small plateau of Tjiburong, at the foot of the steeper part of the mountain, where there is a plank-house for the accommodation of travellers. Close by is a picturesque waterfall and a curious cavern, which I had not time to explore.
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