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«Supposons que ces terrasses soient étroites, et que leurs murs, c'est-
And this sentiment was certainly general if one were to judge by the crowd who literally invaded the terrasses between five and seven, and none of whom seemed in the least preoccupied or anxious. Aperatifs have long since ceased to be anything save pleasant remembrances yet the custom itself has remained strong as a tradition.
On this particular day almost all the seduction of an October day was in the air, a splendid dull warm-cool crispness, which filtered down through the faded chestnut leaves from the sunlight, and left pale splotches of purple and orange on the trottoirs ... a really marvellous day, which I was spending in that most excellent occupation in Paris of gazing into shops and, passing cafés, staring into the faces of those who sat on the terrasses.... But this is an occupation for one alone; so, when I met Sitgreaves, we joined a terrasse ourselves.
The little tables were all along the pavements of the boulevards and the terrasses were crowded with all those bourgeois Frenchmen and their women who do not move out of Paris even in the dogdays, but prefer the scenery of their familiar streets to that of Dieppe and Le Touquet.
«La plupart de ces terrasses successives sont de grandes plaines, dominées par des rochers qui s'éboulent, et forment des talus. Si dans la succession des siècles, les éboulemens de ces bandes de rochers en amphithéâtre finissoient sans emporter les plaines qu'ils soutiennent, et que les torrens eussent creusé leur lit pendant ce tems l
The terrasses were withdrawn from the cafes. No longer could the philosophic Parisian sip his petit verre and watch the drama of the boulevards from the shady side of a marble-topped table. He must sit indoors like an Englishman, in the darkness of his public-house, as though ashamed of drinking in the open.
He seems to have been of an umbrageous character. His life was sad and simple. He was born August 20, 1860, at Montevideo "Ville en amphithéâtre, toits en terrasses, rues en daumiers, rade enorme" of Breton parentage. He died at Paris, 1887.
He painted rapidly, a picture daily, sold it on the terrasses of the cafés for a hundred francs, and when he couldn't get a hundred he would take sixty. Now one must pay thousands for a canvas.
«Ces montagnes ne sont pas telles que V.M. pourroit se les figurer naturellement; il faut y être monté pour s'en former une juste idée. Ce sont des montagnes sur d'autres montagnes. De près on ne voit que les parties inférieures; de loin tout se confond; il faut donc être arrivé sur une des premières terrasses pour voir les secondes; sur celles-ci pour les troisièmes; et ainsi de suite.
Sometimes I go to the Luxembourg gardens to hear the band bray sad music, or to watch the little boys play diavolo, or sail their tiny boats about the fountain pond; sometimes I walk quite silently up the Avenue Gabriel, with its triste line of trees, and dream that I am a Grand Duke; in the evening there are again the terrasses of the cafés, dinner in Montmartre at the Clou, or the Cou-Cou, a revue at La Cigale, but it is all governed, my day and my night, by what happens and by whom I meet.... Have you seen Jacques Blanche's portrait of Nijinsky?"
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