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Before they could proceed on their journey, however, permission had to be obtained from the Government, and this was at first refused. While detained in the colony, Moffat lodged with a Dutch farmer, at a village thirty-six miles from Cape Town, named Stellenbosch.
There's an orchard of peaches and oranges, and there are pomegranate hedges, and plenty of nice flowers in the garden, and a stoep made for candidates for Stellenbosch as comfortable as the room of a Rand director." "Mrs. Byng is with him?" asked Stafford, his eyes turned towards Brinkwort's Farm miles away.
These are festivals in which Mussulman fanatics run knives into their flesh, go into convulsions, &c, to the sound of music, like the Arab described by Houdin. Of course the poor blacks go quite demented. I intend to stay here another two or three weeks, and then to go to Worcester stay a bit; Paarl, ditto; Stellenbosch, ditto and go to Capetown early in March, and in April to embark for home.
They work in the fields, or did so as long as any were left; but even here, I was told, it was a wonder to see them. We went on through the Paarl, a sweet pretty place, reminding one vaguely of Bonchurch, and still through fine mountains, with Scotch firs growing like Italian stone pines, and farms, and vineyard upon vineyard. At Stellenbosch we stopped.
It is very coarse and unintellectual of me; but I would rather see this now, at my age, than Italy; the fresh, new, beautiful nature is a second youth or CHILDHOOD si vous voulez. To-morrow we shall cross the highest pass I have yet crossed, and sleep at Paarl then Stellenbosch, then Capetown.
A certain Van der Lingen, at Stellenbosch, calls Europe 'one vast Sodom', and so forth. There is altogether a nice kettle of religious hatred brewing here. The English Bishop of Capetown appoints all the English clergy, and is absolute monarch of all he surveys; and he and his clergy are carrying matters with a high hand. The Bishop's chaplain told Mrs.
For example, she has the Double-Language, Double-Law, Double-Politics drawback in a worse form than South Africa, because, unlike our Dutch, her French cannot well marry outside their religion, and they take their orders from Italy less central, sometimes, than Pretoria or Stellenbosch.
When, in 1684, Governor Van der Stell founded the lovely town of Stellenbosch, and led out the sparkling waters of its river to irrigate trees which afterwards became very giants of the forest, little did he, or his oppressive and tyrannical son and successor, imagine that they had sown the seed of that which was destined to become an academic grove, in the pleasant retirement of which lads and men should study the universal laws of matter and of mind.
The next day we were up at five, for a march of eighteen miles to Stellenbosch. At mid-day we passed hundreds of re-mount ponies, travelling in droves, with Indian drivers in turbans and loose white linen. In the afternoon we arrived at our camp, a bare, dusty hill, parching under the sun. We passed a week here, drilling and harness cleaning, in an atmosphere of dust and never-ending rumours.
"Our right section, that is, the other half of the Battery, from which we had been separated ever since Stellenbosch, had trained on a day ahead of us, and were now already encamped, so we marched up and joined our lines to theirs, pitched our tents, and once more the Battery was united. And what a curious meeting it was!
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