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Leave Lachoong for Tunkra pass Moraines and their vegetation Pines of great dimensions Wild currants Glaciers Summit of pass Elevation Views Plants Winds Choombi district Lacheepia rock Extreme cold Kinchinjunga Himalayan grouse Meteorological observations Return to Lachoong Oaks Ascent to Yeumtong Flats and debacles Buried pine-trunks Perpetual snow Hot springs Behaviour of Singtam Soubah Leave for Momay Samdong Upper limit of trees Distribution of plants Glacial terraces, etc.

The Soubah was violent, excited, and nervous; Tchebu Lama scared. The Soubah became still more violent, shook his bow in Campbell's face, and drawing his hand significantly across his throat, repeated his questions, adding others, enquiring why he had refused to receive the Lassoo Kajee as Vakeel, etc.

But my horse was too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush from which the animal had given us the alarm. Not seeing anything myself, however, I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his hand to his mouth, exclaiming, "Soubah an allahi!"

After a few minutes, three persons came into the hut, and seated themselves opposite to me: I only recognised two of them; namely, the Singtam Soubah, pale, trembling like a leaf, and with great drops of sweat trickling from his greasy brow; and the Tchebu Lama, stolid, but evidently under restraint, and frightened.

Camp on Zemu river Scenery Falling rocks Tukcham mountain Height of glaciers Botany Gigantic rhubarb Insects Storm Temperature of rivers Behaviour of Lachen Phipun Hostile conduct of Bhoteeas View from mountains above camp Descend to Zemu Samdong Vegetation Letters from Dorjiling Arrival of Singtam Soubah Presents from Rajah Parties collecting Arum-roots Insects Ascend Lachen river Thakya-zong Tallum Samdong village Cottages Mountains Plants Entomology Weather Halo Diseases Conduct of Singtam Soubah His character and illness Agrees to take me to Kongra Lama Tungu Appearance of country Houses Poisoning by arum-roots Yaks and calves Tibet ponies Journey to Kongra Lama Tibetan tents Butter, curds, and churns Hospitality Kinchinjhow and Chomiomo Magnificent Scenery Reach Kongra Lama Pass.

Finally the Soubah tried to persuade my people that one so incorrigibly obstinate must be mad, and that they had better leave me.

There is no loftier country on the globe than that embraced by this view, and no more howling wilderness; well might the Singtam Soubah and every Tibetan describe it as the loftiest, coldest, windiest, and most barren country in the world. Were it buried in everlasting snows, or burnt by a tropical sun, it might still be as utterly sterile; but with such sterility I had long been familiar.

Their calves gambolled by their sides, the drollest of animals, like ass-colts in their antics, kicking up their short hind-legs, whisking their bushy tails in the air, rushing up and down the grassy slopes, and climbing like cats to the top of the rocks. The Soubah and Phipun came early to take me to Kongra Lama, bringing ponies, genuine Tartars in bone and breed.

During the second day's march we were stopped at the Taktoong river by the want of a bridge, which the Singtam Soubah refused to exert himself to have repaired; its waters were, however, so fallen, that our now large party soon bridged it with admirable skill.

Three times the Soubah and others had voluntarily assured me that my person and people were inviolate; nor was there any cause for this outrage but the fear of their escaping with news to Dorjiling, and possibly a feeling of irritation amongst the authorities at the failure of their schemes.