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As he and I went along in the cool morning sunshine by the rice fields in the throat of the Val Maggia a silence fell between us. "You know?" I said abruptly, "about that woman?" Willersley did not answer for a moment. He looked at me over the corner of his spectacles. "Things went pretty far?" he asked. "Oh! all the way!" and I had a twinge of fatuous pride in my unpremeditated achievement.

This desolate and austere background contrasts very vividly with the glowing serenity of the great lake below, with the spacious view of fertile hills and roads and villages and islands to south and east, and with the hotly golden rice flats of the Val Maggia to the north.

A little lower down, the Maggia near Locarno carries in a fresh contribution of mud, which forms another fan-shaped delta, and stretches its ugly mass half across the lake, compelling the steamers to make a considerable detour eastward.

But ever since the ice cleared away, and the torrents began to rush headlong down the deep gorges of the Val Leventina and the Val Maggia, the mud has been hard at work, doing its level best to fill those great ice-worn bowls up again. Near the mouth of each main stream it has already succeeded in spreading a fan-shaped delta.

On the other hand, D is the valley of the Toccia, E of the Maggia, and F of the Ticino. All these three are south of the great watershed, and are inhabited by Italian-speaking people. All these three lead down at last to Lake Major, and so to Milan and so to Rome.