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Ratong river below Mon Lepcha Ferns Vegetation of Yoksun, tropical Araliaceae, fodder for cattle Rice-paper plant Geology of Yoksun Lake Old temples Funereal cypresses Gigantic chait Altars Songboom Weather Catsuperri Velocity of Ratong Worship at Catsuperri lake Scenery Willow Lamas and ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim Tengling Changachelling temples and monks Portrait of myself on walls Block of mica-schist Lingcham Kajee asks for spectacles Hee-hill Arrive at Little Rungeet At Dorjiling Its deserted and wintry appearance.

We encamped at Lingcham, where I had halted on the 21st, and the weather being fine, I took bearings of all the convents and mountains around. There is much cultivation here, and many comparatively rich villages, all occupying flat-shouldered spurs from Mainom. The houses are large, and the yards are full of animals familiar to the eye but not to the ear.

Hence I descended to the Kulhait river, on my route back to Dorjiling, visiting my very hospitable tippling friend, the Kajee of Lingcham, on the way down: he humbly begged me to get him a pair of spectacles, for no other object than to look wise, as he had the eyes of a hawk; he told me that mine drew down universal respect in Sikkim, and that I had been drawn with them on, in the temple at Changachelling; and that a pair would not only wonderfully become him, but afford him the most pleasing recollections of myself.

He spoke no Hindoostanee, but was very communicative through my interpreters. Leaving the Lingcham spur, we passed steep cliffs of mica and schist, covered with brushwood and long grass, about 1000 feet above which the Changachelling convent is perched.

On the following day we proceeded down the valley, and reached habitations at 4000 feet: passing many villages and much cultivation, we crossed the river, and ascended by 7 p.m., to the village of Lingcham, just below the convent of Changachelling, very tired and hungry.

At Kurziuk I was met by a most respectable Lepcha, who, as a sort of compliment, sent his son to escort us to the next village and spur of Pemiongchi, to reach which we crossed another gorge, of which the situation and features were quite similar to those of Kurziuk and Lingcham.