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This done Sir W. Batten and I back again to London, and in the way met my Lady Newcastle going with her coaches and footmen all in velvet: herself, whom I never saw before, as I have heard her often described, for all the town-talk is now-a-days of her extravagancies, with her velvetcap, her hair about her ears; many black patches, because of pimples about her mouth; naked-necked, without any thing about it, and a black just-au-corps.
Behn took the hint for this device from L'Ecole des Maris, ii, XIV, where Isabella feigning to embrace Sganarelle gives her hand to Valere to kiss. p. 116 Just-au-corps. 'A sort of jacket called a justacorps came into fashion in Paris about 1650. M. Quicherat informs us that a pretty Parisienne, the wife of a maitre de comptes named Belot, was the first who appeared in it.
He had on an old gray felt hat, much too large for him, with a dingy, shabby feather, that drooped as if it felt heartily ashamed of itself, and the miserable condition to which it was reduced. A broad collar of guipure lace, ragged in many places, was turned down over a just-au-corps, which had been cut for a taller and much stouter man than the slender, young baron.
The old Chevalier, who had hitherto been taken up with the abstruse calculation derived from his past days of economy how much ribbon would be needed to retrim his murrey just-au-corps, here began to lend an ear, though saying nothing. Philip looked on in open-eyed wonder, and nudged his brother, who muttered in return, 'Jugglery! 'Ah, the fair company are all slow to believe, said the pedlar.
In a ballad called The New-made Gentlewoman, written in the reign of Charles II, occurs the line "My justico and black patches I wear". Mr. Fairholt suggested that justico may be a corruption of juste au corps. Planche's Cyclopedia of Costume, Vol. I, p. 318. Pepys, 26 April, 1667, saw the Duchess of Newcastle 'naked-necked, without anything about it, and a black just-au-corps'. cf.
This done Sir W. Batten and I back again to London, and in the way met my Lady Newcastle going with her coaches and footmen all in velvet: herself, whom I never saw before, as I have heard her often described, for all the town-talk is now-a-days of her extravagancies, with her velvetcap, her hair about her ears; many black patches, because of pimples about her mouth; naked-necked, without any thing about it, and a black just-au-corps.
Well, I have provided her one that I like, but if she be so squeamish, let her fast, with a Murrain to her. Isa. Dear Father. Fran. Dear me no Dears: wou'd your old Mother were alive, she wou'd have strapt your Just-au-corps, for puleing after Cavaliers and Nobleman, i'faith, that wou'd she; a Citizen's Daughter, and would be a Madona in good time. Isa.
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