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It is now at Tor; and, as has been said, it forms a standing menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but to the whole of Europe. Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so well watered as are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, the tenants, confined to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of the despised Hutaym, are milder and more tractable than the Huwaytat.
It proved to be a new species; and Dr. Gunther named it Zamenis elegantissimus. It was also snow-white, and on the right of the path lay black heaps, Hawawit, "ruins" not worth the delay of a visit. Then began a short up-slope with a longer counterslope, on which we met a party of Huwaytat, camel-men and foot-men going to buy grain at El-Wigh.
Here, during springtide, the Huwaytat transport their flocks in the light craft called Katirah, and feed them till the pasture is browsed down. We made extensive inquiries, but could hear of no ruins. If this be the case, either the Pelusian or his manuscripts are greatly in error.
The males were not to be distinguished, in costume and weapons, from their neighbours; and the "females" were all dark and dressed in amorphous blue shirts. At last came an old man and woman of the Huwaytat tribe, bringing for sale a quantity of liquefied butter.
And like the citizens, they hate our manner of travelling: they love to sit up and chat through half the night; and to rise before dawn is an abomination to them. At first their manners, gentle and pliable, contrast pleasantly with the roughness of the half-breds, Huwaytat and Maknawi, who have many of the demerits of the Fellah, without acquiring the merits of the Bedawi.
The Huwaytat, for example, know their way to Suez and to Cairo; they have seen civilization; they have learned, after a fashion, the outlandish ways of the Frank, the Fellah, and the Turk-fellow. The Baliyy have to be taught all these rudiments. Cunning, tricky, and "dodgy," as is all the Wild-Man-race, they lie like the "childish-foolish," deceiving nobody but themselves.
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